Surfing
Noboru, they call him the roughneck of Keio Bus Union, tempted me to surf.
I commute to the sea.
I wasn't so willing, but I tried it just as an experience.
As I expected, it was not easy.
First of all, I had to go offing against the waves.
Big waves knock me off the board. It exhausts me.
My teacher Noboru
We look suspect, but many surfers have symptoms of cataracts due to strong
ultraviolet rays. We wear cheap plastic sun grasses with a sport belt.These
stay on in heavy waves.
I wear a life jacket I bought my wife a few years ago. It makes me feel
safe. It may not be good to Dolphin Through.
I wear a rubber swimming cap my 3rd son's wife gave me for my birthday.
When you go offing, you lay on your stomach on the board and paddle water.
Your weight is on your stomach with your legs and head curved up in an
arch shape.
To hold that shape is difficult for me.
When swimming crawl-style,I go 25m in only 13 strokes, but when I paddle
I move slowly.
Good surfers move quickly.
To go though the big waves is the hurdle.
After that task, I have to wait for a good wave by sitting on the board
, and then I fall off the board.
But this time I stayed on the board for 2 minute.
Noboru told me, people say surfers are fools.
Actually I saw many big guys with tattoos.
But I know weakling can't do it easily.
If some one asks me if I am a surfing fan, I say not all. But I will do it until I get it right. Yet I'm still not standing on the board.
Anyway basically I love the sea .
2010.9.10